The Harrier is a very friendly dog that actually makes a good watch dog but may help a prowler find your house keys. She loves everyone! She needs plenty of exercise so she is not an apartment dog. A properly fenced in yard or acreage is essential for her. She can be very vocal and may tend to wander off after a scent so keep her under control. She is a pack dog so she generally gets along very well with other dogs. Be cautious with her and other pets besides dogs as she may consider them prey. She is generally very good with older children. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.
*Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the Harrier is 18 to 22 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulde women's coats r) and 40 to 60 pounds. The female runs smaller and lighter than the male.
*Special Health Considerations. Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Harrier is no exception. Although this breed is considered very healthy, be on the look out for rare cases of epilepsy (common in dogs), jaw malformations and Canine Hip Dysplasia (genetic based looseness in the hip joint that can lead to arthritis pain and lameness). This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.
She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.
*Grooming. The Harrier has a short dense, glossy and hard coat sheds average. She should be brushed weekly. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.
Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.
Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.
*Life Span. The Harrier can live between 12 and 14 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.
*History. The Harrier comes from Great Britain where they were developed for hunting rabbits and small game in packs. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1885.
Some Registries:
*Harrier Club of America (HCA)
*UKC United Kennel Club
*NKC National Kennel Club
*CKC Continental Kennel Club
*APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
*AKC American Kennel Club
*FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
*NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
*KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain
*ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club
*ACR = American Canine Registry
Litter Size: 7 to 8 Harrier puppies
Category: Hound
Terms To Describe: Active, strong, friendly, loves, outgoing, playful, cheerful,
*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS
Good watch dog.
They love everyone.
Very good nature.
*SPECIAL BAD POINTS
Poor guard dog.
May bay and be very noisy.
May tend to wander off on a scent so keep under control.
Need plenty of exercise.
*Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.
Thursday, November 15, 2012
Harrier Puppy And Dog Information
Wednesday, November 14, 2012
Dog Breeding Explained
The mark to be aimed at in dog breeding is improvement - improvement of your own stock, improvement in the quality of the puppies which you raise, and finally, improvement of the breed itself.
Many owners argue against the purebred dog. They maintain that mongrels must be smarter than thoroughbred specimens, because performing dogs are practically always mixed breeds. This is true, of course, but the average vaudeville performer who trains these animals is like the rest of us in that he would find it rather expensive to finance the establishment of a troupe of thoroughbreds.
I think that is a lot more likely to be the reason for the performing mutts than any greater degree of intelligence on their part. As a matter of fact, I have trained both thoroughbreds and mixed breeds, and I have no hesitation in saying that the purebred dog showed more sagacity and was more amenable to discipline.
A good point to remember is never to breed dogs which have an hereditary fault, unless it is a minor one and is more than balanced by his outstanding good points. Some people claim that a dog with a fault should never under any circumstances be bred, but I am of the opinion that conditions sometimes alter cases.
Suppose a sire throws pups which come quite close to the standard in every respect but one, and that one fault shows through several litters. It stands to reason that a pup from such a sire will never go to the top in the show ring, but it may be a valuable link in obtaining something better when bred to the right specimen of the opposite sex with the object of overcoming the fault. If the fault is a major one, however, I would advise against breeding the dog.
An important aspect to consider will be the pup's coat. This is just as hereditary as the bone structure, the disposition, or the occlusion of the teeth.
Some blood lines produce better coats than others. Since it is hereditary, a poor natural coat cannot be improved, and all the attention in the world will not change it into a glistening, luxuriant growth. The best that can be done for a poor-coated dog is to keep what he has in as good condition as possible and breed for better coats in the next generation.
When breeding, the most important thing to remember is to keep to the correct type unless you know that you can improve it. A cross-breed from some back alley may be sound in body. He may even move well, but he lacks type - that blending of the characteristics of his breed which marks the thoroughbred. We all hope some day to breed the perfect specimen, but there are other things to consider than skeletons and the coats which cover them. It would not be much satisfaction to breed a beautiful specimen with a nervous or ugly disposition.
Dogs have to be useful as well as ornamental in order to survive. From the smallest toy to the largest working dog, they should not know the meaning of fear but should always be ready to stand up for their rights. Nervous, high-strung dogs whose only redeeming feature is their adherence to good type, are often refused recognition in the ring because of these faults.
If either the dog or the bitch is only a fair specimen, inbreeding should not be attempted. The object of inbreeding is not to reproduce all the family characteristics, but just the outstanding good points which the dog or bitch possesses. The brother-sister, mother-son, or father-daughter cross should be carefully thought out, and in each case, both dogs should be of exceptionally high quality.
Never breed shy, weak, or nervous bitches, and do not breed any bitch until she has attai women's jackets ned her full development. Unless she is exceptionally late in coming into her first heat, it is better to give her the extra time for development rather than to breed her.
Much more can be said about breeding dogs, but these are some useful; points to get you thinking. You are on your way!
Ibizan Hound Dog Breed Description, History, Grooming, Health Issues and Living Conditions
Description: The Ibizan hound is fine boned and slender, with a narrow (but long-haired) matching muzzle. Their teeth meet in a scissor bite. The nose colouring is rosy flesh. The eyes or amber to caramel in colour, these are small. With large erect ears, that stand upright and pointed. This breed has a long and slender, slightly arched neck. The chest is long and deep. This dog has straight legs. The breeds height is 22-29 inches, and they weigh 42-55 pounds. Their life expectancy is between 10 and 12 years. There are three varieties of this breed; the long-haired, which is very rare, the smooth haired and the wire-haired. The wire-haired, has a rougher and longer coat than the smooth haired. Colours are white and tan, white and red or red or solid white.
History: This breed of dog is similar to the Pharaoh hound. The main difference being coat colour and the Ibizan hound is larger. It is believed the dogs' breed goes back to 3400 BC, from descriptions that have been found on and ancient Egyptian artifacts. Sea Traders may have brought the dog to Ibiza and other surrounding women's jackets online islands, in about 700 BC. This dog has been used for hunting rabbits. This was a source of food for the islanders. The Ibizan hound is a fast greyhound type that is able to hunt. This dog hunts by using hearing, smell and sight this dog can hunt in a pack or on its own.
Temperament: This dog is known to be good with children, being playful and polite, and also known to be gentle and sensitive. It is best to remember this dog has been bred for hunting. So other pets such as rabbits, rats and cats can be seen as a source of food, to this dog. Cats that have been raised with this dog will be fine, but other cats will be a source of temptation and bring out the hunting instinct of this breed. This dog does well to be socialised from an early age with other dogs and animals, and this includes humans. This dog will not do well left in a kennel. It is a pack animal and need to live with the family. The Ibizan hound is an exceptionally clean dog, and will be respectful of household rules. We see in this dog, a quick learner. They are very trainable, providing, they have an owner that is not timid. This dog can blush, when they get excited. This dog is intelligent and will need variety in their training, as they can become bored. This is a very fast dog and can jump exceptionally high, even from a standing start, they can jump most fences. This dog will require a good run every day and will enjoy at the game of retrieving. Keeping this breed on the lead is important due, in part, to its speed. Due to its instinct, to hunt, this dog can shoot off like a rocket and will only return when it's ready, no matter how long or how much you may call him.
Health issues: Some lines are prone to epilepsy, but over all this is a strong and hardly dog. The Ibizan hound can have allergic reactions to some medication, insecticides and flea powders.
Grooming: Ibizan hounds do not require much attention, to gain a shiny coat. Rubbing a rubber glove over it is all that is required. Checking the ears weekly to see that they are clean and tidy, this will help reduce the risk of ear infections.
Living conditions: This dog will be fine in an apartment provided they get adequate exercise, both mentally and physically. An Ibizan hound will like a large garden. Fencing needs to be carefully considered due to the dog's ability to jump a normal garden fence with ease. The breed club literature suggests a 40X60 feet fenced area, as a minimum.
Tuesday, November 13, 2012
Grooming The Brussels Griffon
There are two types of Brussels Griffon ?€" the Rough and the Smooth. Both are equally delightful companions. The rough coated Brussels Griffon is probably the most common. The smooth coated Brussels Griffon is easier to groom.
The rough coat should be wiry and dense, the harder and more wiry the better. The Brussels Griffon should never look or feel woolly. There should be no silky hair on the Brussels Griffon. The coat of a Brussels Griffon should not be long and shaggy. The rough coated Brussels Griffon should be distinctly different all over from the smooth coated Brussels Griffon. The Brussels Griffon is a rugged little dog that should look natural and not overly tr women's coats immed. The Brussels Griffon colors are red, black and black and tan.
The head of a Brussels Griffon should be covered with wiry hair slightly longer around the eyes, nose, cheeks, and chin, which forms a fringe. The smooth coated Brussels Griffon is similar to the Boston Terrier or Bulldog, with no trace of wire hair.
Of all the toy dogs, the Brussels Griffon is one of the most interesting and different. The modern version of the Brussels Griffon is a Belgian street dog crossed with the Affenpinshcer. Throughout the years various breeds were brought in for various features. The most successful crosses were maintained. Over time the terrier-like charm with almost a human expression is what we now know as the Brussels Griffon.
The Brussels Griffon is a rarity among dogs, however, he has faired very well in the show world. Some have become top winners in all-breed competition.
Equipment needed to groom the Brussels Griffon:
?€? Natural Bristle brush or hound glove
?€? Medium-toothed comb
?€? Fine-toothed comb
?€? Thinning scissors
?€? Tweezers
The Brussels Griffon needs brushing, bathing, drying, ear cleaning, nail trimming. The coat of a Brussels Griffon also requires hand stripping. Do not use clippers on a Brussels Griffon. The use of clippers will cause the coat of a Brussels Griffon to lose its natural texture and the color will fade.
For routine grooming use a natural bristle brush or hound glove. Regular brushing will reduce the need for frequent bathing. Regular brushing helps keep the coat free of dead hairs and the need for coming is lessened. Over-coming may take out too much live undercoat.
You should work through the coat with a bristle brush, then comb through with a medium-toothed comb. Leave a few hairs on the back between your finger and thumb and gently pull if the hair comes out easily, the coat is ready to strip.
Stripping Method for the body:
1. Start stripping the topcoat of the Brussels Griffon at the base of the neck between the shoulder blades down the back and side of the tail. Note: Always strip with the growth of the hair toward you.
2. Remove the long hairs from the Brussels Griffon thighs.
3. Remove the thick hair growing on the back of the hind legs, and the longest hairs from the front of the legs and feet. Do over strip in this area. The desired appearance of a Brussels Griffon feet are cat-like. Over stripping of the feet can detract from this cat-like look you want to achieve.
4. Strip the shoulders around to the chest. Remove long hairs from the leg.
5. Strip the long hair on the outside of each shoulder, down to the elbow. This will create a straight front which is desirable.
6. Strip the chest at the front to the lowest point.
7. The only place you may use clippers on the Brussels Griffon is under the stomach and around the genital area. You can also scissor this area clear.
8. Take a look at your Brussels Griffon as he stands on the grooming table. Remove all stray hairs that detracts from the smart, balanced look you want to achieve.
Stripping Method for the head of a Brussels Griffon:
1. Start behind the eyes. Strip only a few strands of hair at a time. Work back to each ear and over the top of the head. Leave some longer hairs over the eyes to form eyebrows.
2. Strip the back of the ears, down to the chest. Continue down the side of the neck toward the jawbone. This method of stripping gives a distinct beard that blends into the chest.
3. Comb the beard forward to enable you to pluck the ear and below the beard to the throat. You want a clean neckline and to accentuate the head.
4. Remove long hairs from the inside the ear. The edge of the ear can be closely trimmed with scissors for a neat finish.
5. The point between the eyes, just above the nose is called ?€?the stop.?€?This is a tender area of the Brussels Griffon. You will need to use tweezers to remove a small amount of hair in this area.
6. Remove the hairs from the corner of the eye with tweezers or curved scissors. This will prevent the hairs from sticking into the eyes of your Brussels Griffon and/or accumulating debris.
7. Remove the hair of the beard that adjoins the ears in a direct line from the corner of each eye.
8. Tidy around the anus of your Brussels Griffon with scissors or thinning scissors for a neat finish.
9. Trim hair from under the feet and between the toes.
Now you are ready to bathe your Brussels Griffon. Try using a natural mild shampoo and always rinse well. Check the dog?€?s nails, ears and teeth. You may hand or cage dry your Brussels Griffon.
How often should your Brussels Griffon be stripped? This depends upon whether or not he is a pet or a show dog. For pets, a complete strip twice a year will be sufficient with tidying in between. For the show dog, stripping is ideally done in stages ?€" side of body and legs first, then back, then head, because they grow in different stages.
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How To Properly Care For Your Faux Fur Coats To Make Them Last And Look Good
Faux fur coats have become very popular, thanks to their affordability and classy appearance. They provide the luxurious feel of the real ones and will women's coats keep you nice and warm. Some of them are designed in styles that almost make it impossible to tell that they are faux, because they look so lush and elegant. The question is, how do you choose the best one?
One of the things you want your new faux fur to be is durable. Some of the furs that are being sold are designed to last for decades, while others may only last for a short while. It's easy to be dazzled by coats that have an attractive cut and seemingly lush faux fur. In order to select one of quality, you have to look past the outer appearance of the coat and pay attention to the synthetic fibers that they are made of. Go online and do some research to find out which fibers make the best coats and last the longest. Then when you're actually shopping for one, you will be able to select not just the nicest looking one, but one that will last you for years to come
Don't discount faux fur as not being worth the expense, just because they aren't real. They can provide just as much warmth as real ones at a fraction of the cost. On the same token, just because they are not real fur, doesn't meant that they don't require a lot of care and maintenance to keep them in good condition. There are some tips that will help you keep it looking great.
One of the first things you should do is be sure to store it where it will be kept dry. Water and dampness can ruin the look of your fake fur. Avoid wearing it in wet weather conditions.
Cleaning your coat regularly will also help it to maintain its look and feel. It's important to observe proper cleaning techniques, so the fur won't get ruined. When its time to clean it, don't let it get wet. There are products that will allow you to clean your coat while it is dry. You can go online to find out different ways to achieve this or go to your local dry cleaner and see if they offer this service or can suggest a product to use.
Another way to make sure that your coat always looks great is to buy a soft bristled clothes brush and gently brush the fur once a week. This will remove soil and keep the fur gleaming. It's important to brush it properly. Never brush against the natural grain of the fur. Instead gently brush it in long strokes following the natural lines of the fur. You will be amazed at how nice your coat looks when you're finished. Have your coat professionally cleaned every 6 to eight weeks or to remove stains. By taking good care of your coat, you will be able to enjoy it for years to come.
Monday, September 24, 2012
Vintage Style Jeans with Wide Side Pockets
Thursday, August 23, 2012
Leaking Pond - How to Find the Pond Leak
Your detective work needs to be done after a period of no rain or watering. Follow these steps to find the source of your leaking pond.
Step 1 - Turn off all pumps. You want all water flow in and out of the pond to stop completely.
Step 2 - Carefully inspect the areas around your pond for soggy grass or muddy plants.
Step 3 - Check all visible plumbing connections and pipes for cracks. Also check the ground areas where piping has been run.
Step 4 - After shutting down all the water movement, wait a couple hours for everything in the pipes to drain to an equalization point. Mark the water level in your pond. Give it 24 hours and check to see where the level is. If the weather is hot, expect there might be some evaporation, but if you see a 2" drop you will Xiamen Freede Valve know that you have a leak in the pond body. If the level is very close to where you marked it, you need to look further.
If the leak is in the main pond, drain it and look for areas where water appears to be pooling up. Water will flow back into the pond through a cut liner. When you locate the hole, repair it with a patch kit or run a new liner over top of the compromised one.
Step 5 - Access your piping along the side of the pond, install a 'T' at the top of the stream with a ball valve. Point one end to the start of your stream and the other end pointing to your waterfall. Add a piece of hose long enough to reach the center of the stream in the same direction your water would normally flow. Watch that the water pressure is not shooting against the sides of the stream wall.
Block the line going to the top of the Waterfall and start your pump. You will be running all the water from your pond to the start of the stream. Wait a couple hours for levels to stabilize, and then mark your water level spot again.
After 24 hours, a level that has dropped will indicate the leak is in the stream. Sharp shifted rocks on the stream walls are usually the culprit. Pull the rocks away and look for slices or cuts. Use a pond liner patch kit to repair any holes you find. Use waterfall foam to inject between the rocks to seal and direct water flow. Wait 24 hours and check again, repeat or go to step 6.
Step 6 - Open the ball valve going to the Waterfall, start the pump again and repeat the process. The leak is not normally a cut in the liner, but a spot where soil has settled, allowing water to overflow the sides. Use waterfall foam to bolster the sidelines and fill in the gaps leading to potential weak spots.
Finding the leak takes patience. Just make sure to repair the spots properly because you will not want to do this again.